Cacio e Pepe but Add Caramelized Onions

A friend in Japan recently gave me a jar of salted peppercorns, which are apparently intended both for cooking and for popping straight into one's mouth as the ultimate savory snack. My son and I sat in a bar trying very hard not to eat the entire jar so I can confirm that they are excellent for the latter purpose, and while I fully intend to share the remainder with guests (I am thinking they would be a lovely garnish for smoked salmon toasts over the holidays), I suspect I will be doing so more grudgingly than I usually am where food is concerned. There are some things one becomes quite possessive about, and a jar of delicious little salty peppercorns is evidently one of mine.

Naturally, this new ingredient got me thinking about cacio e pepe, which is already a dish I find difficult to resist. I wanted to use the salted peppercorns alongside the usual freshly crushed black pepper, but I also had an idea that caramelized onions would be a rather wonderful addition. I am sure there are people who would consider this an entirely unnecessary interference with a Roman classic, but (as you all already know from following this blog), I have never been particularly concerned about upsetting the guardians of culinary tradition when a good dinner is at stake.

I used Talamanka peppercorns, which I crushed in a mortar and pestle along with the salted ones. You can use whatever peppercorns you have, and even ground black pepper will do if that's what's available. You might lose a little oomph, but frankly, this dish has plenty of oomph with which to begin! The onions take a little time to caramelize, but once they're done, the pasta comes together very quickly.

This is emphatically a dish for greedy people like me, not a diet dish, and I see absolutely no reason to apologize for that. Between the caramelized onions, the generous amount of cheese, and the two sorts of pepper, it is an extremely good way to treat yourself to dinner. Add a glass of red wine and you will be humming and happy all evening.

1 portion of spaghetti (not an exact measurement because, in my opinion, pasta portions are completely subjective and fluctuate based on hunger and greediness level of the day...)

1 small white or yellow onion, thinly sliced

1/4 cup finely grated Pecorino Romano

1/4 cup finely grated Parmesan

1 tsp salted peppercorns (optional)

1/2 tsp Talamanka peppercorns (or whatever black peppercorns you have on hand, and don't forget to make up the difference if not using the salted ones. If using ground pepper, only use one teaspoon.)

1 Tbsp olive oil

A splash of dry white wine

Salt to taste

Heat the olive oil in a skillet over medium-low heat and add the sliced onion. Season lightly with salt, then cook slowly, stirring occasionally, until the onion is deeply golden and caramelized, approximately twenty-five to thirty minutes. If it begins to catch before it has softened and browned, lower the heat and add a splash of water.

Add the white wine and stir to loosen any browned bits from the bottom of the skillet. Let the wine cook away, then turn the heat to low while you prepare the pasta.

While the onions are cooking down, heat a pan of lightly salted water over medium heat until boiling. Add the spaghetti and cook until al dente according to the directions on the package. Reserve half a cup of the pasta cooking water before draining.

Crush the peppercorns in a mortar and pestle. If using ground pepper instead, simply have it ready to add.

Add the drained pasta to the skillet with the caramelized onions, along with a quarter cup of the reserved pasta water. Turn up the heat and stir until the water is bubbling and the onions are thoroughly mixed through the pasta. Add the crushed peppers and toss again.

Remove the skillet from the heat while there is still some bubbling pasta water surrounding the pasta and onions. Add the grated Pecorino Romano and Parmesan, tossing and stirring vigorously until the cheeses melt into the liquid and form a creamy sauce that coats the pasta. Add a little more of the remaining pasta water as needed to keep everything moving and prevent the cheese from clumping.

Taste before adding any more salt, since the salted peppercorns and Pecorino Romano will already have contributed plenty.

Transfer to a bowl and eat immediately, without feeling any obligation to share.