Huevos Rancheros

I will almost always order huevos rancheros if I see them on a menu, although none will ever rival the deliciousness of those of my childhood, served at the Tokyo branch of Trader Vic's in the New Otani Hotel. There are probably as many versions of huevos rancheros as there are restaurants that serve them, and I am generally happy to eat any of them.

This time, though, I wanted a very pared-down version because I was basically making dinner as a vehicle to inhale as much of my friend Paige's exceptional lacto-fermented nectarine hot sauce as I could in one go. Its garlicky notes and slight fruity sweetness made it the perfect foil for the earthy black beans, and I wanted to be able to taste both the beans and the sauce rather than burying them under too many other things. I should probably mention that I value this hot sauce highly enough that I smuggled a bottle considerably larger than the TSA-approved 3.4 ounces through airport security over Labor Day weekend, so my judgment on the matter may not be entirely impartial.

You could certainly gild the lily with some crumbled Cotija and/or a dollop of sour cream, and on another day I probably would, but Paige's homemade hot sauce truly deserved to be the star of the show. Since you will not be so fortunate as to have access to this elixir, please use copious amounts of your favorite hot sauce instead.

2 eggs

1/2 15-oz can black beans, drained and rinsed

1/2 tomato, chopped

1/4 red onion, finely chopped

2 tortillas (I used corn)

1/2 avocado, chopped

2 tsps olive oil

1/4 tsp ground cumin

Generous drizzle of your favorite hot sauce

1 Tbsp chopped cilantro

Salt to taste

Heat one teaspoon of the olive oil in a small skillet over medium-low heat. Add the red onion with a pinch of salt and cook until softened. Add the tomato and cumin and continue cooking until the tomato has broken down and become soft and jammy.

Add the black beans and cook for a few more minutes, lightly mashing some of them with the back of a spoon or a fork as they heat through. You want the mixture to hold together while still leaving plenty of the beans intact. If the pan starts looking dry, add a splash of water. Taste and adjust the salt.

Meanwhile, toast the tortillas in a dry skillet until hot and lightly crisped in places. Set them on a plate.

Heat the remaining teaspoon of olive oil in a nonstick pan and fry the eggs sunny-side up. I like the whites completely set and the yolks still runny, but cook yours however you like them.

Put one egg on top of each tortilla, then divide the warm bean mixture between them. Scatter the chopped avocado over the beans, add a generous drizzle of hot sauce and finish with the chopped cilantro. Serve immediately.

Let's be honest - you could probably halve this recipe and be satiated after one tortilla. But it was delicious and I am greedy and I scarfed the lot. I feel no guilt.